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Claim for cosmetics

Ocular irritation test on reconstructed corneal epithelium

Regulatory reference: OECD n° 492
Claim: Non-irritant for the eyes
Application field: Chemical substances or mixtures.
Description of the test: Identification of chemical substances or mixtures that do not require classification as (severe) irritants through evaluation of their cytotoxic effects on an in vitro reconstructed corneal epithelium model. NOTE: if the sample qualifies as irritant, further tests are required in order to determine the degree of irritant action.
Posted in Cosmetic raw materials, Detergents, Make up, Claim for cosmetics, Non-irritant for the eyes

Clinical simulation of use and ophthalmological evaluation on 20 healthy volunteers

Regulatory reference: Guidelines to Commission Regulation (EU) No 655/2013
Claim: Ophthalmologically tested
Application field: Eye contour cosmetics or products that require to confirm the compatibility with the periocular mucosa in normal usage conditions.
Description of the test: An ophthalmology specialist will inspect the target area, and especially the eyelids, before the application using a fissure lamp, in order to confirm the absence of swelling, hyperemia, dryness or desquamation. The inspection also rules off alterations of the eyelashes.
In the eye itself, the integrity of the cornea and conjunctiva, the absence of hyperemia, and signs of conjunctival or tarsal irritation are verified. Finally, the absence of qualitative and quantitative alterations in the tear film.
The specialist then evaluates and scores erythemal response, tearing, edema and dryness after the product has been used for 30 minutes, 2 days and 30 days to quantify possible alterations induced by the sample.
The volunteers also provide subjective evaluations of itching, burning, stinging or foreign body response feeling, and/or sight clouding, at the same endpoints, using the VAS (Visual Analogical Scale) score system.
Posted in Make up, Claim for cosmetics, Ophthalmologically tested

Preliminary in vitro SPF determination

Regulatory reference: Proprietary method based on ISO 24444:2010
Claim: SPF Sun Protection Factor
Application field: Sunscreen creams, sticks and cosmetic products.
Description of the test: Preliminary screening of the sun protection factor, UVA/SPF ratio and critical wavelength of a sunscreen formula.

 

Posted in SPF Sun Protection Factor, Sunscreens, Claim for cosmetics

Evaluation of hair restructuring efficacy

Regulatory reference: Guidelines to Commission Regulation (EU) No 655/2013
Claim: Hair loss protection
Application field: Hair products and cosmetics products for scalp treatment.
Description of the test: In vivo test: performed on selected volunteers with specific trichological features (dry and damaged hair). Volunteers will apply the product according to pre-agreed frequency and methods. 10 hairs from each subject will be gathered at T=0 and T= X days (duration to be defined with the customer). Dynamometric measurements will be performed in order to evaluate the increase in tensile strength of the hairs and their resistance to breakage. Subjective evaluations will be provided by volunteers using an open and multiple choices questionnaire to verify the perceived efficacy and other parameters such as effects on hair volume and agreeability.
In vitro test: standardized locks of human hair (several types are available according to preferences) will be treated with a damaging mixture in controlled conditions. Part of the locks will then undergo treatment with the product. Comparative imaging will be performed under tangent light to highlight improvement of hair brightness. 2 samples will be taken from each lock to evaluate improvement by phase contrast microscopy or SEM.
Posted in Hair loss protection, Hair products, Claim for cosmetics

Seboregulation activity test and count of closed and open comedones

Regulatory reference: Guidelines to Commission Regulation (EU) No 655/2013
Claim: Non-comedogenic and Seboregulating
Application field: Visage and body cosmetics for oily skin.
Description of the test: Sebometric measurements in triplicate performed with Sebometer® at T=0 and T=X days after the treatment. Measurements will be performed on the cheeks after treatment. The untreated forehead will be used as a control. The measurements will compensate for circadian rhythms and will therefore be performed at the same time during the day. Open and closed comedones will be counted under Wood’s lamp illumination. Clinical evaluation of high resolution imaging will be performed using a contrast system at T=0 and after X days of treatment.
Posted in Acne, Seboregulating, Non-comedogenic, Claim for cosmetics

Long lasting test

Regulatory reference: Guidelines to Commission Regulation (EU) No 655/2013
Claim: Long lasting
Application field: Makeup and lipsticks.
Description of the test: Instrumental colorimetric evaluation: the evaluation can only be performed on pigmented products and is not applicable to transparent cosmetics. Clinical evaluation: digital imaging of the treated area at T=0 and after X hours from the application of the product. The duration of the treatment is agreed upon with the sponsor before the test.
Posted in Long lasting, Make up, Claim for cosmetics

No transfer test

Regulatory reference: Guidelines to Commission Regulation (EU) No 655/2013
Claim: No transfer
Application field: Makeup and lipsticks.
Description of the test: Digital images of the treated area are captured immediately after application of the product and after contact with test items. Depending on the type of product testing, contact items include skin, paper cups, glass cups, napkins, white clothes.
Posted in No transfer, Make up, Claim for cosmetics

Eye tolerability test

Regulatory reference: Guidelines to Commission Regulation (EU) No 655/2013
Claim: Ophthalmologically tested
Application field: Children shampoos and body washes.
Description of the test: Ophthalmology experts evaluate the conditions of the eye surface and periocular region before and after 5 and 60 minutes of application of the diluted product. Self-evaluation of itching, burning, and irritaiton feeling.
Posted in Detergents, Claim for cosmetics, Ophthalmologically tested

Moisturizing and deep hydration test with TEWL measurement

Regulatory reference: Guidelines to Commission Regulation (EU) No 655/2013
Claim: Hydrates the skin
Application field: Cosmetic products.
Description of the test: Test on healthy volunteers with the following instrumental measurements:
  • Corneometric measurements of the epidermal conductivity and TEWL (Trans Epidermal Water Loss) at T=0 and T=2 hours after application;
  • Measurement of the hydration levels at T=0 and T=6 hours from application at a depth of 0.5–1 mm.

Employed instruments:

  • Corneometer® CM285 (Courage-Khazaka GmbH, Germany) – Multiprobe Adapter Systems MPA® (Courage-Kkazaka).
  • Tewameter® TM300 (Courage-Khazaka GmbH, Germany- Multiprobe Adapter Systems MPA® (Courage-Kkazaka).
  • Moisture Meter EpiD – Delphin.
Posted in Hydrates the skin, Moisturizers, Claim for cosmetics

In vivo determination of the sun protection factor (SPF)

Regulatory reference: ISO 24444:2010
Claim: SPF Sun Protection Factor
Application field: Sunscreen creams, sticks and cosmetic products.
Description of the test: Determination of the sun protection factor (SPF) on healthy volunteer through controlled irradiation and measurement of the erythemal response.
Posted in SPF Sun Protection Factor, Sunscreens, Claim for cosmetics